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Pearl Shoppers Guide

What is a pearl?

A pearl is the product of a partnership between nature and chance.

When a foreign object, such as a grain of sand, is trapped in an oyster or mussel, it is coated with layers of a smooth, crystalline substance known as nacre. Over time, this natural process produces the luminescent gem we know as a pearl.

Nearly all pearls sold today are cultured. That is to say, each one is created by deliberately inserting an irritant into the oyster's tissue. However, the quality of cultured pearls varies widely. Unlike diamonds, cultured pearls are not rated by an industry-wide grading system. As with diamonds, however, there are specific characteristics that do affect cultured pearl quality.

Qualities

Size

More than any other factor, size determines price. Pearl size is the result of the size of the implanted nucleus plus the thickness of the nacre, which grows layer by layer. A large cultured pearl is of little value if it lacks nacre thickness since a thinly coated cultured pearl will crack and discolour. Only an expert can verify nacre thickness.

The size of a pearl is determined by measuring the diameter. Cultured Pearls can be as small as 1 mm or as large as 20 mm. Freshwater and Japanese Akoya Pearls average between 4 mm and 8 mm, while the larger South Sea Pearls can reach sizes of up to 20 mm. Generally speaking, the larger a pearl, the more valuable it is.

Although the size of a pearl does not affect its quality, it does dramatically affect the price. For example, take two pearls of the same quality - one of 4 mm size and the other of 8 mm size. Invariably, the 8 mm pearl will be considerably (5-6 times) more expensive than the same quality 4 mm pearl.

Shape

Because real pearls are a product of nature, they come in an almost limitless variety of shapes. Perfectly round cultured pearls are the rare. While most cultured pearls are normally round, only about 1% are perfect spheres. To check a strand, roll it on a flat surface. The movement should be even and smooth. Round pearls, are more sought after and therefore more expensive.

Buying a pearl is a very individual experience. Asymmetrical pearls (or Baroque Pearls as they are called) often have a unique character and charm that are ideally suited to informal wear, and they are available at lesser prices.

Four basic shapes are defined at the production stage: Round and semi-round, semi-baroque, ringed, and baroque. For some jewellery makers, shape is purely a design element, be it the sensuous curves of the drop or the flowing free-form lines of many baroque shapes. For such artists, all shapes that inspire them share aesthetic equality.

Round pearls are almost perfect spheres whose diameter variation rate is less than 2%. The round pearl is the most sought cultured pearl.

Semi-round pearls are slightly imperfect spheres whose diameter variation rate is greater than 2% but less than 5%.

When a pearl is allowed two years to grow inside an oyster, the chances of even, perfectly spherical nacre accumulation are a long shot. However, more plentiful semi-rounds and button shapes can give the look of round shapes for less money, especially when these pearls are set in jewellery. In such cases, slight deviations from round and even noticeable elongation can be concealed or, at the very least, masked.

Because pearls are most commonly used in jewellery, the low incidence of rounds is not considered a drawback. On the contrary, the wide variety of affordable fancy shapes is a big drawing card for jewellers who specialise in them.

Colour

Pearls occur in a spectrum of shades. The major classifications are white, pink, silver, cream, gold, and black. Fine cultured pearls will also have a secondary colour or "overtone" — usually rose, green, or blue — around the outside of the pearl. Traditionally, cultured pearls with pinkish-white or pinkish-silver colouring are the most highly prized. Whatever the colour, it should appear to emanate from deep within the cultured pearl and should be evenly spread and not patchy.

Buy the pearl that best suits your skin. The lighter coloured pearls are generally more suited to people with fair hair and light skin, whereas darker, richer colours often complement darker skin tones.

Orient

A small percentage of cultured pearls display rainbow-like colours that appear to move over the surface.

Lustre

Lustre refers to the surface shine that gives cultured pearls their glowing beauty. Stand with your back to the light; the sharper the reflection of light on the cultured pearl, the higher the lustre.

Lustre is by far the most important factor in the grading of pearls. The lustre gives the pearl its beauty. Generally, the more coatings of nacre, the better the lustre is.

When selecting pearls, be prepared to compromise slightly on the colour and size, but always purchase the highest quality possible within your budget.

Surface

Like any product of nature, all cultured pearls have imperfections. However, a quality-cultured pearl should be free of large pits or blemishes. Run your fingers lightly over the surface of the pearl. Ideally, it should be flawless and smooth.

FAQ

Why are two different strands of the same length priced differently?

There are many criteria applied to judging cultured pearl quality. All of them can affect price. All other factors being equal, however, the size of the cultured pearls determines the price of a strand. Larger cultured pearls are rare and far more difficult to match than smaller ones.

What Causes Pearl Colour?

A lot of pearl farmers wish they had the full answer to that question. Then they could control the colour of the pearls they cultivate. As it is, they have only part answers or clues, which include the following:

The type of host oyster: Oysters vary in their potential to produce certain coloured pearls. For example, black pearls are cultivated in the black-lipped oyster because other oysters do not produce pearls of the same type. Although pearl farmers know the black-lipped oyster is essential to the cultivation of black pearls, they don't know yet how to consistently make it produce a specific colour. The pearl may end up being white or a variety of shades of grey as well as black, bronze, greenish or purplish.

The quality of the nacre: If the nacre is very thin, the colour will look milky and lack overtone tints. Besides being affected by the number of layers of nacre, pearl colour is affected by the thickness of each layer.

The environment they are grown in: It's theorised that there may be trace elements in the water that affect the colour.

The colour of the tissue is inserted with the bead nucleus. This involves the colour of tissue from another oyster's mantle (the part of the oyster that secrets pearl nacre) that has to be implanted with the shell bead for a cultured pearl to grow.

How do I care for my cultured pearls?

Fine cultured pearls with thick nacre layers will last for generations if cared for properly. Cultured pearls should be kept free of perfumes, cosmetics, perspiration, and dirt. You may gently wipe cultured pearls with a slightly damp cloth. Some merchants strung cultured pearls are on pure silk with knots between each cultured pearl. Over time, the silk will stretch, weaken and become soiled. If you wear your cultured pearls regularly, we encourage you to have your cultured pearls cleaned and re-strung annually.